Commute is 26 miles each way, 60-90 minutes of mostly stop-and-go -- does Level 1 have any chance here?

52 a day plus kids plus errands... that's going to be 60-70 most days realistically. Level 1 loses about 21% to charging losses vs about 8% on Level 2, so you're paying more for every mile too. In CT winter I'm at 3.0 mi/kWh vs 4+ in summer, so a cold week on 120V you'll be slowly sliding backwards. Doable if you top up on weekends or at a DCFC once a week or so. I'd start with L1 and see what your actual numbers are before spending money as a renter.

Is the 120V outlet on a dedicated circuit, and is it close to where you park? Do not use an extension cord with the portable charger. Most of them have no temperature sensing at the cord connection and that is where things melt.

Stop and go is basically the best case for an EV. You'll use way less than you think on that commute

It's in a shared carport, outlet is on the post right in front of my spot so no extension cord. No idea if it's dedicated though, the landlord just said "yeah you can plug in there." Is there a way to tell without getting an electrician out?

One thing I'd add, keep an eye on the plug. Mine worked itself loose in the outlet over time and I didn't notice right away. Woke up to a lot less charge than I expected.

I'd do exactly what mdonnelly_ said: run it on L1 for a few weeks before you spend any money or start pushing the landlord. Track how much you actually use on the commute and how much you get back overnight. Your real numbers will tell you more than any of us can. My 14-50 ended up costing $3600 because of basement rewiring, so I'm a little biased against paying for capacity you might not need. As for whether it's dedicated - you can't really tell from the outlet itself. With a carport post it could easily be shared with the carport lights or with the outlets on the next few posts. If one of your neighbors also plugs into that circuit, you'll find out fast when the breaker trips at 2am. Ask the landlord which breaker it's on and whether anything else is on it. If they don't know, that's probably your answer.

A shared carport outlet is almost never on a dedicated circuit. I wouldn't pull 12A through it every night for hours without knowing what's on it.

We rent too. Honestly L1 in a carport with unknown wiring would make me nervous more than the range math does. Make sure your renters insurance is current and get the landlord's okay in writing at least.

Your commute will be easy on energy in summer. Winter is a different story. Even in slow traffic you'll be running the heater the whole 60 to 90 minutes, and at low speed that becomes a big share of what you use. Precondition while plugged in so you leave with a warm cabin and battery. If the landlord ever agrees to something, a 20A 240V circuit is plenty for this and is a much easier request than a 50A one.

I'd second asking about a 6-20. My electrician put one in for $300. It's a small ask of a landlord compared to a 14-50 and it'll make this whole question go away.

Ask the landlord about a 6-20 but phrase it as "a 240V outlet for a tool" if they go get quotes. I've seen EV quotes come in at double for the identical receptacle and wire... electricians know what EV people will pay. Also for a commute like this the L1 math mostly works if you're plugged in every single night. It's the nights you miss that put you behind, not the average.

Our winters here in the Okanagan are cold enough that I'd plan on L1 not keeping up from December through February, at least not with that much time in traffic with the heat running. Shoulder seasons you'll probably be fine. If the car has a heat pump that helps a lot. Heated seats and steering wheel use way less than heating the whole cabin, so lean on those in stop and go.