Update from the original post — it held for about six weeks, then stuck again at 32A after a patch I don't even remember getting a notification for. Nothing dramatic, just quietly back to the lower default one morning. I've stopped assuming it's a one-time fix and just check the setting after any update I notice, even the ones that don't mention charging in the release notes.
It can happen, but it's not the norm. I've done six OTA updates on my Bolt over two winters and never lost amperage. Check your car's charge current limit in settings before panicking. What vehicle do you have?
Which vehicle model and what version did the OTA update to? Check if your charge current limit in the car menu got reset to a lower default — some updates revert that setting.
Yeah, this happened to a buddy's Model Y after an update last winter. First thing - check your charge current limit in the vehicle settings menu. Some OTA updates reset that back to a default 32A. Also check the EVSE settings if you have a smart unit - my Grizzl-e app got bumped to a lower amperage after a firmware update once. Easy fix in the settings, but easy to miss if you're not looking.
The 48A to 32A drop is more likely the EVSE re-running its breaker auto-detection than anything on the car side. Some units default to a 40A profile if they don't get a clear 60A signal during that check. Worth looking at the EVSE's own configuration menu, not just the car's charge slider — those are two separate settings.
The EVSE firmware angle here is the one people are skipping past. If the car's slider shows 48A available but you're still only pulling 32A at the wall, the limiter is sitting in the charger's own firmware, not the vehicle — that's a completely different fix. Worth checking that before you spend twenty minutes digging through the car's menu for nothing.
48A requires a 60A breaker hardwired. If your setup has a 50A breaker, that update just saved you from a fire. Check the breaker handle number. If it's 50A, 32A is the correct 80% continuous limit. Many EVSEs ship with an unsafe default that OTA updates sometimes correct.
I didn't even know software updates could affect charging speed. I got a notification last week and declined it because I was worried about breaking something. Maybe I shouldn't have done that?
Declining the update doesn't break anything, but it might mean you're missing a safety correction — if your setup was pulling 48A on a 50A breaker, that update would have fixed an overcurrent risk. Check your breaker size before deciding.
Worth checking if your manufacturer publishes a changelog before deciding to skip an update — ChargePoint and Tesla both do now. Sometimes what looks like a random settings change is actually a documented bug fix, not something to just ignore.
I put off my first OTA update too, same paranoia. Turned out fine — just double check your car's charge settings after you run it. Mine dropped to 32A once and I slid it back up in the menu, took maybe 10 seconds.
Had this happen on my outdoor Level 2 in Minneapolis — OTA update reset the internal amp setting to default 32A. Went into the unit's settings menu and slid it back up to 48A. Took 30 seconds.
That's basically me too — I've been declining every software update for the past 3 months because I'm worried it'll mess up my car somehow. But now people are saying an update might've actually prevented a fire? Confused about that. Also still don't know if my charger is Level 1 or Level 2, or what that even means for updates. Would appreciate someone just telling me whether to accept the update or not.
Accept the update. It likely fixed an overcurrent risk if your wiring wasn't rated for 48A continuous. Check your breaker size — if it's 50A, 32A is the correct safe limit.
Fair to be cautious, but worth checking the release notes first if your manufacturer posts them — Tesla and ChargePoint both do. You can actually see whether an update touches charge current defaults before deciding to install it instead of just guessing.
Same thing happened to me after an update last year. Check your charge current setting in the car menu - OTA updates sometimes reset it back to 32A. It's literally just a slider in the charging settings. No need to panic, it's not your hardware dying or anything. Took me 30 seconds to fix once I found the setting.
My Grizzl-e did this too after a firmware update last spring — dropped straight from 48A to 32A. I was convinced something had fried until I finally found the charge current setting buried in the app, reset back to default. Slid it back up in about thirty seconds and felt silly for panicking all day.
Ha, same story with my JuiceBox last fall. One firmware update and it defaulted down to 32A from 48A. Took me embarrassingly long to realize it was just the app's charge current setting reverting — once I found it, fixing it was a ten-second slider job.
Happened on my ChargePoint after a firmware update. Settings got reset to default 32A. Check vehicle charge current limit in the menu - OTA updates sometimes revert it. Easy fix, just slide it back up if your breaker can handle it.
Yep, that's exactly what happened to me with my ClipperCreek after an update. Settings got wiped. Just had to go into the car menu and slide the charge current back up to 48A.
Check your car's charge current limit in settings — OTAs sometimes reset that to 32A. Worth checking your breaker size too before sliding it back up to 48A.
48A continuous requires a 60A breaker per NEC 625.41 — 125% of 48A is 60A, and the code only allows 80% continuous loading. Pull the deadfront and read the breaker handle. If it says 50, the update corrected an overloaded setup — you were running 96% of rated capacity instead of the allowed 80%. If it says 60, the update just reset the EVSE's own configuration, and you can put it back to 48A in the app.
@graycoil That was my experience too. First time I got the update I assumed the charger was toast. Re-running the setup in the app fixed it, but I still keep a screenshot of the original config just in case.
This happened to me after a firmware update last winter too. Check your vehicle's charge current setting in the menu — OTA updates love resetting that slider back to 32A. Ten seconds to fix if your breaker can handle it.
The drop from 48A to 32A after an OTA update is most likely the EVSE re-running its installation current limit detection. Many units auto-detect breaker sizing on boot and default to 32A if they don't see a 60A breaker signal. Check your unit's internal configuration menu, not just the vehicle's charge slider - the EVSE itself may have reverted to a 40A breaker profile (32A continuous = 80% of 40A). That's separate from whatever the car's charge current limit is set to.
Seven years. If the update reset your EVSE's internal configuration, it might have defaulted to a lower amp setting. Check the charger's own settings menu before blaming the car.
Check your car's charge current limit in the settings menu. OTA updates sometimes reset it to 32A — that's all it is, a slider. Ten seconds to slide back up if your breaker can handle it. Not your hardware dying.
What version number was the OTA update that triggered this? And did the release notes mention any changes to the EVSE's breaker configuration profile, or was that buried in the firmware changelog with no user-facing documentation?
Same thing happened after an update on my buddy's Model Y. Check your charge current limit in the vehicle settings menu - OTA updates sometimes reset it to 32A. Easy fix.
First year I had my Level 2, I left the connector sitting on the ground where the sprinkler hit it every morning. Took me a whole day to figure out why it stopped working right - had to dry it out completely. Now I hang it up every single time. Learned the hard way that these things have quirks. Check your car's charge current slider in the settings menu before you panic - OTA updates love resetting that to 32A for no good reason.
Mine's hardwired on a 50A breaker. When it first happens, don't start yanking cables and blaming the charger — nine times out of ten it's just a settings reset from the update, not a hardware failure.
Yeah, that's basically the sprinkler lesson all over again for me — quirky little things that don't mean the unit's dying. Check the charge current slider in the settings before you panic; OTA updates reset that to 32A more than they should.
Mine did this too after an update last year — the charge current slider in the car's menu had reset itself to 32A. Easy fix once you know where to look.
Are you saying the OTA update on your car changed your apartment charger setup, or are you just sharing unrelated moving stress? Two different conversations here.
Had this same issue after an OTA last winter. Charge current slider in the vehicle settings menu got reset to 32A. Took 30 seconds to slide it back to 48A. Check your breaker size first - if it's 50A, 32A is actually the safe limit per NEC 625.41. Not a hardware failure.
Are you sure the weather seal is okay? I was told IP66 means it's fine in any rain or snow, but my charger got slow after a cold snap. Maybe the cold makes the cable stiff and the connection weak? Or is the weather sealing not as perfect as the salesman said?
Your weather seal is very likely fine — this thread is about the 48A-to-32A drop, and that's not a connection or sealing issue at all, it's the pack. Cold slows charge acceptance because lithium-ion internal resistance climbs as temperature drops, and the BMS will actively throttle current to protect the cells rather than push full amperage into a cold pack — that's true even with a perfect connection and a bone-dry plug. IP66 tells you the enclosure survives dust and water ingress; it says nothing about the electrochemistry inside the battery, which is a completely separate spec that manufacturers don't put on the charger at all because it's a vehicle-side limit, not an EVSE-side one. If you want to confirm it's the pack and not the connection: check whether the car's own charge current display shows it requesting less current (car-side throttling) versus the EVSE showing an error or fault (which would point to a wiring/connection problem). Nine times out of ten in a cold-snap post like this, it's the car.
Had the same 48A to 32A drop on my ChargePoint after an update last year. Checked the EVSE's internal config menu, not just the car's charge slider. Unit had reverted its breaker profile from 60A to 40A. Fixed it in the EVSE settings in under a minute.
Did the manufacturer provide a changelog or release notes for that OTA update? Curious whether the firmware silently reconfigured the EVSE's internal breaker profile from 60A to 40A, or if this was a documented safety patch for units installed on 50A breakers. Without seeing the release notes, we're just guessing whether this was intentional or a settings wipe.
Does the reduced rate stick until you manually bump it back up, or does it revert on its own once the car's had a chance to warm up or another update rolls through?
If you don't know your breaker size, it's stamped right on the double-pole breaker in the panel — 50A, 60A, whatever it is. Multiply by 0.8 for your safe continuous draw, which is usually exactly why these updates cap you at 32A or 40A instead of the full rating.
Go check your breaker label and look up which EVSE you have — knowing this stuff saves headaches. I checked mine after a similar scare, turned out my unit was set to 32A in the app the whole time.
So the update might have actually prevented a fire? I thought my charger was dying, but now I'm not sure if I should be relieved or more worried. We don't deal with this stuff where I garage my car.
Relieved, I think? I'm used to warm weather where this never happens, so the frozen port stuff is new to me too. Did you end up needing the manual release or did it just work after warming up?
Mine's a '22 Model Y. After the 2024.38 update, it dropped to 32A too. Turns out the update reset my amperage setting in the car—easy fix once I checked the menu.
