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PSA from charging engineer: Don't use the cheap Amazon charge cords, they can melt your EV's charge port

nate_halvard
Short version: those inexpensive portable charging cords sold on Amazon for around $250-300 are dangerous, can melt the charge port on your car, and shouldn't be bought or used. The glowing Amazon reviews are manipulated. I keep seeing questions about these specific portable EVSEs on various EV forums, so I'm posting a broad warning. It doesn't matter what amp rating it has or which label it carries (Lectron, Morec, Besenergy, and so on) -- this particular unit is bad news. Charging technology is part of my day job. After noticing owners describe two recurring faults, I picked up one secondhand through Facebook Marketplace to check for myself. Fault one: the pins inside the J-plug get too hot. Fault two: the unit tells the car it can supply more current than it really can, which makes fault one far more dangerous. Owners' groups have plenty of accounts of melted charge ports, with people stuck waiting months for parts or paying several thousand dollars out of pocket for repairs. My sample definitely has the first problem. My Bolt EV tops out at 32A thanks to its 7.2kW onboard charger, and this supposedly 40A unit still got badly hot in under 30 minutes. That means it was running at roughly 20% below its rating, yet the J-plug contacts hit 95°C (over 200°F). (Please don't poke things, metal especially, into a J plug. I test EVSEs regularly as an engineer and understand the hazards.) The cord sat in a cool garage, and I regularly charge this same car on other EVSEs at my employer's lab without any heating trouble. I even repeated the test there the next day, same car, with a reputable EVSE: the contacts stayed under 25°C, only about 2°C over ambient. 95°C won't melt the plastic by itself, but it's a glaring warning of a design or build flaw. Run it for 8 hours instead of 30 minutes, at full power, outdoors on a hot day, and it's easy to see how something could melt. Some owners say theirs has been fine, but they probably can't see how hot the pins get inside, perhaps right at the edge of failure without having crossed it yet. Maybe their unit lacks the defect; maybe it has it and just hasn't gotten hot enough. I haven't verified the second fault, since my Bolt can't draw beyond 32A and I won't plug this into a colleague's car to find out. But owner forums, Facebook groups, and Amazon reviews are full of reports of cars and the units themselves showing current well above the rating. Some background: EVSEs use a simple signaling scheme to tell the car how much current is available -- essentially "you're connected to an EVSE and my maximum is X amps" -- and the car then draws what it needs without going over X. Whoever designed this unit either got sloppy or misunderstood the scheme, because it advertises far more current than it's rated to deliver. Combine that with the overheating hardware and you get melted ports. Picture a Mach-E, which can pull 48A, on this 40A-rated cord that was already near scorching at 32A after half an hour. If the cord signals 48A or more, the car takes 48A and things get very hot. That's how ports end up melted. Listings and manuals often include a note that cars sometimes pull too much power, but that's a smoke screen. For one, plenty of cars don't let the driver lower the charge current as the sellers suggest. For another, signaling the correct available current for the rating is entirely the cord's responsibility. No excuse exists for advertising unsafe current and then blaming the car or driver for not turning it down. That's just false. If you own one, seriously consider stopping use. It not feeling hot on the outside doesn't mean you're safe. I'd only be comfortable with one if the car pulled 32A at most and the J plug stayed ice cold after an hour or more. When I measured pins above 200°F, the handle's exterior only felt warm, not hot. Not every unit is necessarily faulty, but enough are to warrant real concern. And again, don't push thermometers into a J-plug the way I did unless you fully grasp the safety risk of deliberately bypassing touch-safe design around dangerous voltage. That the pins are supposedly dead when unplugged is little comfort with a device that has known safety problems. So why are the Amazon reviews decent? Because the sellers game the system: paying reviewers, launching fresh listings when an old one's rating slips, and so on. I left a negative review on just one of the many listings, and the seller emailed me right away offering cash to remove it -- $45. Their ratings near 4.5 stars come from paying to erase bad reviews and likely rewarding good ones. Sadly, there's no easy way to separate cheap Amazon EVSEs that are fine from the hazardous ones. I've used a budget Duosida 16A unit for years without worry, but a lot of bad ones are out there. It would be terrible for a new EV owner to buy a highly-rated EVSE, have it melt the port on their brand-new car, and lose their only transportation. You can gamble if you're comfortable with that, but unless you're ready to do your own testing, I strongly recommend buying a reputable brand with certification from a Nationally Recognized Test Lab (UL, ETL, Intertek, CSA, TÜV, etc.) and verifying it on that lab's website. The point of Listing is that consumers can look the product up, and listed items genuinely passed standardized testing. Unfortunately many of these sellers falsely claim UL or TÜV approval. Stay safe.
Filed under: Chevy Bolt Charging
1146 answers
146 ANSWERS
hcalloway
@hcallowayNovember 10, 2026
Thanks for the heads-up, this is a useful warning. It's a shame marketplaces like Amazon can't rein in this kind of fraud, and it affects just about every category of consumer product.
len_okoye
@len_okoyeNovember 11, 2026
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norm_aycock
@norm_aycockNovember 11, 2026
Resellers ought to face real accountability. If I ran a small business selling junk, public opinion would crush me and I'd be forced to close, so I only stock things I actually believe in. Amazon dodges that by shrugging and saying it's just a marketplace, not its fault, and offering a "free" return. Honestly, Amazon operates the most profitable and efficient counterfeit operation ever.
len_okoye
@len_okoyeNovember 11, 2026
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jorge_baeza
@jorge_baezaNovember 11, 2026
Amazon was once pretty decent. These days it feels like a pricier AliBaba that simply keeps items in stock and ships them fast. I don't order much from them, and I'd never buy anything that could ruin a vehicle worth $40k or more.
hcalloway
@hcallowayNovember 11, 2026
Agreed, buying locally seems to be the only real answer. I'm a firm believer in "buy once, cry once."
len_okoye
@len_okoyeNovember 11, 2026
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cstahl_21
@cstahl_21November 11, 2026
Amazon could absolutely solve this, but doing so would cut into profits a little and hurt the stock price. Bezos is just too damn greedy to care.
gabe_wollner
@gabe_wollnerNovember 11, 2026
Amazon and Bezos want this fixed even more than you do, but it's incredibly hard. Think about how many products are listed and how many different sellers there are. It's like playing Whack-a-Mole.
cstahl_21
@cstahl_21November 11, 2026
Honestly, this is what greed gets you. Amazon was under no obligation to let in every junk-peddling seller out there, and it chose to anyway.
gabe_wollner
@gabe_wollnerNovember 11, 2026
Sure, so explain how you'd keep out all the garbage sellers while still letting small family-run shops open up and sell without hassle on Amazon. Sounds simple, right? Because I assume you realize that a huge number of people, likely several hundred thousand or more, depend on Amazon to run their own businesses.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 11, 2026
That's true, but it's exactly part of the issue. The marketplace ought to be split off into its own separate site, something like AmazonMarketplace.com, where the eBay-style and drop-ship "mom and pop" listings can live. Amazon.com itself would then carry only items that are sold and shipped by Amazon. Reading through reviews makes it obvious lots of shoppers can't tell the two apart. They buy junk from a marketplace seller believing Amazon is behind it, then discover the return rules differ, the warranty doesn't apply, and so on. Picture walking into a Walmart where one half is real Walmart and the other half is a flea market using Walmart price tags, with every item rung up at the same registers. A week later you try to return something broken, and Walmart says, "We didn't sell you that, 'JimBob's House of Import Crap' did," even though you paid under the same roof. Now you're told to ship the busted thing to Shenzhen at your own cost if you want your money back. The root problem is Amazon's greedy ambition to be a retailer and also eBay, Etsy, and Alibaba all in one.
gabe_wollner
@gabe_wollnerNovember 11, 2026
I see plenty of upside in making it so easy for almost anyone to start selling on Amazon. Also, a lot of small shops send their inventory to Amazon so Amazon handles fulfillment, and that counts as sold by Amazon, the same way Gillette razors do.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 10, 2026
Not quite. That's labeled "shipped by Amazon," while the seller is still the small shop. The marketplace was set up, I'd argue, to protect Amazon's growing online retail monopoly from politicians. The pitch goes something like: "We're no monopoly, just a platform like eBay. We coexist with thousands of small retailers who can't match our selection or prices, particularly since they must follow the rules and logistics we built just to survive. We could wipe them all out in an instant, like a kid with a magnifying glass over an anthill, but we let them keep a few crumbs of our enormous cake, so we look generous enough that Elizabeth Warren types can't rally the support to break us up like Ma Bell."
gabe_wollner
@gabe_wollnerNovember 11, 2026
They're only a platform. They don't manufacture anything, and even the Amazon's Choice products are made by other companies.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 11, 2026
Yes, but they do sell things. They're a gigantic online retailer that effectively rents out shelf space to other sellers who have no real chance of competing with them. Amazon could crush every marketplace seller overnight by hiking commissions to unsustainable levels, or by cutting "sold by Amazon" prices below what the small sellers can match. That wouldn't touch the handful of marketplace vendors who truly make their goods, like Etsy sellers. But most of the marketplace is drop shippers and importers who buy the same imported junk as everybody else, ship it in bulk to an Amazon warehouse, and let Amazon sell and deliver it. My quickest tell that an electronics listing is total garbage is when it's a marketplace item that Amazon doesn't also sell itself.
cstahl_21
@cstahl_21November 11, 2026
Put resources into finding and removing bad actors and fake reviews. Of course that's something one of the wealthiest corporations on Earth couldn't possibly pay for. 🙄 By the way, what's your favorite kind of Kiwi?
dpurdy_12
@dpurdy_12November 11, 2026
Amazon could use some real "Transparency." Oh wait, that's an Amazon trademark.
fenn_marlow
@fenn_marlowNovember 11, 2026
Me, staring at my rechargeable batteries: ![gif]emote|free_emotes_pack|feels_bad_man) It's a bummer, but I might need to throw the whole bunch out.
ellard_k
@ellard_kNovember 11, 2026
Amazon is flooded with fake batteries, and the worst offenders tend to be high-discharge LiPo and Li-ion packs. If whatever you're powering draws a lot of current, that's a real safety risk.
fenn_marlow
@fenn_marlowNovember 11, 2026
I should clarify that I only meant AA and AAA cells. They still heat up while recharging, though, and they were supposed to be from a trusted brand. Maybe there's simply no reliable way to verify them, and I'd be better off throwing them out and buying replacements at Best Buy.
ozan_k88
@ozan_k88November 11, 2026
It's perfectly normal for batteries to warm up as they charge.
pat_ellingson
@pat_ellingsonNovember 11, 2026
For the money, IKEA's Ladda cells are surprisingly good quality, and buying straight from IKEA means you shouldn't run into any fakes.
kgrimaldi_3
@kgrimaldi_3November 11, 2026
I picked up some Panasonic eneloop AAs through Amazon. I'm fairly confident they're genuine, and either way they've been excellent batteries.
hal_cutler
@hal_cutlerNovember 11, 2026
Pretty much every 18650 cell sold there is either counterfeit or a knock-off, so you really need to track down a specialist site that sells them.
hjelm_k
@hjelm_kNovember 11, 2026
I only buy from Amazon when the brand is one I know or can check out. I search "[brand name] trademark", and if the results lead back to China, I walk away right then. I've been burned plenty of times, even on mundane stuff like phone screen protectors.
corbin_yu
@corbin_yuNovember 11, 2026
My own rule is simpler: I don't buy anything from Amazon.
dev_arkwright
@dev_arkwrightNovember 10, 2026
This deserves to be pinned, since this forum is among the biggest sites on the internet and anyone searching about electric vehicles is likely to end up here. As for the EVSEs, it's sadly not a case of manufacturers making errors. They know they're selling a counterfeit product. They want reviews like "Five stars, cheaper than everything else and it delivers the full 7.4kWh once I plugged it in!" to spread around. People also assume charging a car is as harmless as plugging a phone into a tiny USB charger. We're warned the moment we look at a gas car that it's a metal shell carrying a tank of toxic, flammable, volatile liquid. Nobody issues similar warnings about EVs; you just plug in overnight like a phone, and people draw the wrong conclusion from that.
stuart_wynne
@stuart_wynneNovember 11, 2026
Over on the Chevy Bolt EV forum, people regularly post about charge ports that melted because of cheap off-brand chargers (Mustart among them). From what I last heard, a replacement port can take eight months or longer to get. Skimping on the thing that supplies your EV's "fuel" just isn't worth it.
yuri_b64
@yuri_b64November 11, 2026
Exactly. Since we're EV drivers, we're probably keeping loads of cash by skipping gas, so shelling out an extra $150 or so for a basic Grizzl-E or something comparable is a no-brainer. It beats frying your charge port and then driving a loaner gas car for several months while you wait for a replacement.
carter_nolt
@carter_noltNovember 11, 2026
Is there a portable EVSE from Grizzl-E? My home setup is a ChargePoint, but I also keep a Mustart Travelmaster in the trunk, never actually used, just in case I head out to my family's cabin, which has RV hookups.
tomasello_r
@tomasello_rNovember 11, 2026
Yeah, in the Facebook group there's about one of these woe-is-me stories every day. My reaction is always: seriously, just stop using these chargers!
tmilner_90
@tmilner_90November 11, 2026
Replacing a charge port runs about $1000 with installation. Edit: A few of you seem to have read my post wrong. I mean the charge port on the car itself. I had to swap mine on my Bolt after a mishap with a snowblower, and the new port cost $1000. It was miserable. Don't skimp on a charger that might melt the port, because the outcome isn't pleasant.
stuart_wynne
@stuart_wynneNovember 11, 2026
Plus, the warranty might refuse to cover it since it would count as user error.
emiles_63
@emiles_63November 11, 2026
It's pretty foolish that the charge port has no thermal sensor.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 11, 2026
That federal credit for EVSEs and their installation ended after 2021.
hgaskin
@hgaskinNovember 11, 2026
Over on the Chevy Bolt EV forum, people constantly post about ports that melted from cheap off-brand chargers like Mustart and similar ones. When I bring that up, they get annoyed with me.
kyle_brasher
@kyle_brasherNovember 11, 2026
I can back that up. I'm in the Lectron program, where you receive products at a steep discount in return for reviews. Even though the EVSEs are a great deal, I wouldn't buy any of them myself, but the J1772-to-Tesla adapters (and the reverse) have held up well for me.
tinkerhall
@tinkerhallNovember 11, 2026
Are you saying the Lectron listings on Amazon are padded with paid or fake reviews?
kyle_brasher
@kyle_brasherNovember 11, 2026
More or less. Nobody told me the reviews had to be 5 stars, as far as I recall, but I did get a big discount in exchange for writing one.
owen_dackett
@owen_dackettNovember 11, 2026
And absolutely avoid the Leviton 14-50 outlets.
wiley_dane
@wiley_daneNovember 11, 2026
The same goes for the Hubbell HBL9450A on Amazon. I knew better but bought one anyway, and sure enough it turned out to be a counterfeit.
pat_ellingson
@pat_ellingsonNovember 11, 2026
Gamble if you want, but unless you're able to do your own quality testing on the unit after purchase, I'd strongly urge you to stick with well-known brands of charging gear that carry certification from a Nationally Recognized Test Lab (UL, ETL, Intertek, CSA, TÜV and so on), and to verify that certification on the lab's own website. The whole point of a Listing is that anyone can search the lab's database, and products in it really did pass the standardized testing. Sadly, plenty of sellers falsely claim UL, TÜV or similar approval. There are a few fast red flags you can look for, too. A UL listing number printed on the manual's cover page is likely covering only the connector, not the full charger. For some reason that trick is extremely common. See the example here. Be wary of brands that sell only plug-in EVSEs. A hardwired charger has to be a listed product to get through an electrical inspection. Also be suspicious when the wording around UL gets elaborate, like "J1772 plug is fully UL recognized!" That's usually meant to distract you. A company with real UL Listed products, such as ClipperCreek, puts the listing details in the specifications section on page 21 and doesn't bring it up earlier.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Thanks for the added detail. I own the very unit you linked. It's worked well for me (just one person's experience, I know), and since the cord assembly is the part that's most troublesome on bad EVSEs, having it UL listed gives me a bit more confidence. The remaining electronics are the sort of commodity items China has been mass-producing for decades, and they appear to have done a decent job. I'd still tell people to pick a unit with NRTL listings for the whole thing rather than only the connector assembly, but the connector listing is a modest plus in my view. This 16A model doesn't seem guilty of most of the problems I wrote up about the Morec, Besenergy, Lectron and Mustart 32/40A units. Still, the J1772 connector could be swapped tomorrow and anyone buying on Wednesday would be fooled by the glowing reviews, so buyer beware.
tmcarver_
@tmcarver_November 11, 2026
Adding to that: with UL, at least, you can check a product yourself. Look on the product, box or paperwork for a file number formatted E######. Enter it in UL iQ, and you should turn up the certificate with the model number among those listed. Parts such as the plug only receive the recognized component mark (the backwards R). It means the part was tested and that helps with testing the finished product, but it tells you nothing about the finished product. As a consumer you can disregard it. Also, replying to another comment further down: a manufacturer could switch components after testing, but they're meant to clear that with UL first. Some surely have done it anyway, but a UL certification costs a lot and is a pain to get, so having paid for one, it would be foolish to undermine it that way.
wilmer_j
@wilmer_jNovember 11, 2026
Seriously, anything that plugs into the wall should be NRTL listed (UL/CSA/TUV). A bargain screwdriver from Amazon might just strip a few screw heads, but a lot of the unlisted electrical products are outright fire hazards. And once it arrives, CHECK FOR THE UL MARKING! If the device you got doesn't have it, send it back as not as described.
wally_neeson
@wally_neesonNovember 10, 2026
That's why I think every car ought to ship with a safe EVSE. I wouldn't be shocked if Kia ended up facing a class action for leaving one out and for not properly informing buyers how to choose one. People shouldn't need the knowledge of an electrical engineer to wade through all of this.
ptarver_09
@ptarver_09November 11, 2026
Amazon overall has become a wasteland compared with just a few years back. Search for nearly anything and most results are AliExpress junk resold at 3-4x the price, stuffed with SEO, and Amazon obviously doesn't care since it's gone on for years and shoppers keep buying cheap knockoffs anyway. These days I mostly skip Amazon, except for ordinary name-brand items like shampoo or things so simple nobody could screw them up, like salt. For a product that's actually good, I go to a real store that takes the trouble to curate what it carries. I think tech companies' devotion to the algorithm is their biggest weakness and will eventually sink them. Scammers learned to game every system years ago and nothing has been done, and the top five have gotten dramatically worse because of it. They have endless money, so sure, it doesn't matter to them now, but I can't shake the feeling that they're ripe for disruption and that this kind of thing marks the start of their long-term decline. To me Amazon is now nothing more than a glorified Dollar General.
lpetrak_31
@lpetrak_31November 11, 2026
Great PSA, and as another engineer I'm fully on board with what the others have said. One extra thing: calling them J-plugs is a nice touch, and I'd love to see that take off, since saying J1772 every time is a real mouthful.
lgebhardt
@lgebhardtNovember 11, 2026
Can't say anything about the ChargePoint, but I picked a Grizzl-e because it's reasonably portable and comes with a NEMA 14-50 plug, which works at plenty of RV hookup spots. I'd hoped the mini model would be out by now, yet the site still lists it as coming soon. Compared with my Level 1 cord it's bulkier to carry, but it gives me a quicker way to charge anywhere there's a 14-50 outlet.
mhalberg_51
@mhalberg_51November 11, 2026
When I asked the company about the mini's release, they told me summer, since it's still in the certification process.
dsilvey_
@dsilvey_November 11, 2026
If my utility company approved it, a Grizzl-e would be an easy choice for me, no hesitation.
ned_rutter
@ned_rutterNovember 11, 2026
After a few bad experiences, I won't even use Amazon cords for my iPhone, so this news is frightening.
lkastner_09
@lkastner_09November 11, 2026
I always go with Anker for phone cables. Is there a similarly dependable brand when it comes to EV chargers?
fnorberg
@fnorbergNovember 11, 2026
Plenty of options exist. Clipper Creek is probably the nearest match to what Anker is for phone cables, though Grizzl-E, Webasto, and ChargePoint are good too. Webasto also makes the OEM units for the new GM and Ford EVSEs, which ship with both Level 1 and Level 2 wall plugs.
dave_wolinski
@dave_wolinskiNovember 11, 2026
It baffles me that someone would pay tens of thousands for a car and then try to save a hundred or so on the EVSE. I'd only ever buy a known brand that's UL listed or certified. Cutting corners isn't worth the chance of wrecking the car, or even burning down the whole house.
norm_aycock
@norm_aycockNovember 11, 2026
Hardly anyone pays for a car in one lump sum worth tens of thousands. It gets spread out, something like $350-$550 a month for 5 years or so, and you hardly notice it. So in that context, shelling out $900 for a Chargepoint EVSE does sting, particularly when it lands on top of a monthly car payment.
dave_wolinski
@dave_wolinskiNovember 11, 2026
What I'd love is a portable J1772 unit that ships with a full set of interchangeable adapters and sets the amperage properly, the way Tesla's UMC does. The OEM ones usually include just NEMA 5-15 and 14-50 plugs and stop there. And for cars that can't adjust their own charge rate (Mach E, Bolt, and so on), a 14-50 adapter is useless on anything that doesn't manage the amperage. I've been going back and forth on simply buying a UMC along with a TeslaTap.
rick_holbrook
@rick_holbrookNovember 11, 2026
That's exactly what I did. With the UMC now going for only $200 on Tesla's site, it's a ridiculous deal. Grab one and pair it with the Teslatap!
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
I didn't believe $200 was real, so I checked for myself. Unfortunately it's sold out at the moment, which is a shame because it would be a great choice.
rick_holbrook
@rick_holbrookNovember 11, 2026
Stock on those goes back and forth. They were available around a week ago, in fact. If you set up a restock alert, you'll likely snag one within a few weeks.
rupert_dane
@rupert_daneNovember 11, 2026
Honestly, I'd say that's the cheapest dependable choice at the moment.
nico_ashgrove
@nico_ashgroveNovember 11, 2026
I was totally convinced by your pitch, right up until I saw it's out of stock 😭
mkelso_81
@mkelso_81November 11, 2026
The nearest alternative I came across is the Clipper Creek LCS-25P, priced at $485. It isn't truly portable, though, since it's a plug-in unit.
tessmoor_9
@tessmoor_9November 11, 2026
I use the dual 120/240 v Turbo cord from Wabasto. On 240 v it only does 16 amps, but that suits what I need. Clipper Creek also makes the AmazingE, which is portable and comes in 16 amp or 32 amp versions.
fnorberg
@fnorbergNovember 11, 2026
Whoever reviewed that one on State of Charge didn't hold back; it got a harsh write-up.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 11, 2026
I've gone the budget route myself. A cheap, sub-$200 16A unit lives in the trunk of my Leaf, and I keep a $300 32A Shell Recharge for my ID4 as an "emergency" option, say for plugging in at a campground on a road trip. Ideally neither ever gets used. If it comes to that, I'm assuming they'll hold up for a night or two. The 16A Lectron is likely junk, but after I bought it I ran it for a few hours and it worked fine and stayed cool. The Shell Recharge looks decent and got a lukewarm review from Tom Moloughney's "State of Charge". It isn't UL-listed, but I figure Shell's deep pockets stand behind it anyway. A product white-labeled for a company that size shouldn't be a fire hazard, I'd hope!
nate_pellow
@nate_pellowNovember 10, 2026
If you're in the US, just make sure whatever you buy carries a UL listing.
ketterly_m
@ketterly_mNovember 11, 2026
The issue, I think, is that a lot of these products falsely claim to be certified.
kmcrae_58
@kmcrae_58November 11, 2026
Just get a ChargePoint, JuiceBox, or Wall Connector. Why pinch $300 on a car that costs $50K?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
From the looks alone, that's the same unit I own, and it's treated me well. Reportedly the J-plug cable assembly is UL listed even if the whole unit isn't. Buying from NAPA also gives me some confidence, since they likely do some supply-chain quality checking, which seems totally missing on Amazon.
mpavlik_3
@mpavlik_3November 11, 2026
Mine is a Lectron 240v charger that looks exactly like that. I was fine with it until I read this post...
hmasters_47
@hmasters_47November 11, 2026
Have you taken it apart to find out why it was overheating?
mitzi_r
@mitzi_rNovember 11, 2026
Please post what you find if you do open it! I suspect the inside will be badly designed and unsafe too, similar to that well-known teardown from years back of a cheap knockoff iPhone charger.
pbailey_47
@pbailey_47November 11, 2026
I never verified the second problem, where the unit lets the EV pull more than it's rated for. My Bolt tops out at 32A, and I'm not about to plug this charger into a coworker's car just to find out. Couldn't you run it against some kind of car simulator instead? It seems like it would be pretty easy to build, and I'd expect any company that designs chargers to keep several of them around, at least covering the parts of the protocol their products use. I'm not saying I doubt these units are junk, but both issues should be easy to confirm on a bench rather than in a vehicle.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Yes, I own a couple of charge port pass-throughs that let me hook an EVSE to a load bank or anything else I like. With an oscilloscope I could measure the PWM duty cycle on the pilot pin, which is how the EVSE tells the car how much current it can offer. What I really ought to do when I have time is the simpler test: connect it to my Bolt for a minute and read the duty cycle the car sees using my OBD reader. Ideally scheduled charging would be turned on so the car doesn't actually draw power, though a brief moment of charging would be harmless. I did look at this before, but my car seems to apply some scale factor to the value it reports, and I wasn't sure my calculation was right, so I left it out of the post. There's also the Fluke FEV100, a tester built for charging stations that some contractors use. It can check the pilot signal too, but the technician has to attach a scope meter, which is a nuisance.
ageary_58
@ageary_58November 11, 2026
Great post, and thanks for sharing it. You mention trusting the Duosida, but that's a budget Chinese EVSE sold on Amazon too, and I've noticed its housing and LED layout seem to be reused across several brands. What exactly makes you confident in it? They say it's UL listed, yet others have said that's misleading, since only the connector carries the UL listing and not the whole product.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
To be clear, my confidence is in my own Duosida EVSE specifically. Anyone buying something that looks the same has no guarantee of getting a good one, especially since the Duosida site now sends you, when you click that unit, to an Amazon listing for a totally different product that doesn't seem to include the UL-listed cable assembly the older ones had. I'd feel better about a unit if someone could get exactly what I received: the J1772 connector that matches mine, which the Duosida site currently shows, with the UL mark on it. That's no guarantee, but most of an EVSE's risk and cost sits in the cord and connector assembly, while the rest is fairly basic electronics that Chinese factories are now good at and have less reason to cut corners on. So I have somewhat more trust in the exact unit I got, but not much more in Duosida units overall compared with the others known to ship junk.
hgaskin
@hgaskinNovember 11, 2026
An EVSE exists as a safety device, and its only job is to guard you against fire and electric shock. I can't understand why anyone would buy knockoffs that aren't certified.
hgaskin
@hgaskinNovember 11, 2026
Really, any ordinary electrical cord could charge an EV. The EVSE just adds protection and cuts the circuit when needed.
hgaskin
@hgaskinNovember 11, 2026
Sure, a cord can deliver power, but safety comes first, and that's exactly why EVSEs were invented. FOR SAFETY. That's the main reason the equipment exists at all, and you'd have to be pretty dense not to know it.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
My guess is the certification never actually happened. The unit even has 'UL 2584' printed on it, but I suspect that's a flat-out lie. Someone else ran some informal tests and found a cheap EVSE with no RCD whatsoever.
jcassel_09
@jcassel_09November 11, 2026
Nice post. If you find certifications that look falsified, I'd urge you to report it to the testing lab or NRTL, and/or straight to OSHA. The form says it's for filing a complaint against a lab, but they can pass it along to the right people at the NRTL. I'd also suggest filing a complaint with the Consumer Product Safety Commission.
kleinfelter_p
@kleinfelter_pNovember 11, 2026
Obviously, if a charger advertises more current than it can handle, that's a software problem and there's no way around it. But when a unit's current output is correct and safe, would swapping in a higher-quality J-plug fix the overheating of the plug?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Swapping out the J-plug goes beyond what an electrician would normally handle; it's really a job for factory remanufacturing. That's not to say an electrician or some other tech couldn't pull it off, but I wouldn't suggest it to an ordinary consumer. Eventually I plan to pry the handle open to find out what's going wrong inside. My guess is either poorly done crimps or a flawed contact design.
kleinfelter_p
@kleinfelter_pNovember 10, 2026
I come from recreational marine power systems, so high-current terminations and connectors are familiar territory, and the idea just popped into my head. What I'd really like to know is whether the pin terminations are what's overheating, or whether the pins themselves don't meet spec. Sorry if I overstepped. I figured technicians who maintain public EVSE units probably replace J-plugs fairly routinely, but I don't work in that field, so that was only a guess on my end.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
No worries, and I agree it'd be great if that were done more often. In practice the cord and the J plug tend to get damaged together, so they're swapped out as one assembly. Crimping the high-power connections in the field just isn't worth the risk at this price level.
pgrady_71
@pgrady_71November 11, 2026
Ugh. I've got a Duosida that I used about a year and a half ago with my Spark EV, and I'd hate to just toss it. Annoying.
lgrover_52
@lgrover_52November 11, 2026
Mine's been in service for 7 years now and the Duosida has never caused me any trouble. Mine is the 240V L2 model.
pgrady_71
@pgrady_71November 11, 2026
Same here, no problems at all, and I've owned mine for a much shorter time than you have. Mine is the 220v 16A model.
norris_ed
@norris_edNovember 11, 2026
I've got the 16A one too. Over the past 8 years I've owned two of them (the first went along with the car when I sold it), and neither gave me any trouble. 🤷
jwendt_63
@jwendt_63November 11, 2026
Is it safe to use this portable Shell EV charger? I've plugged it into a 14-50 outlet a few times and it delivered 40a without any hiccups, and it also worked fine on a 120v outlet for Level 1 charging. Here's their UL certification:
nkearns_
@nkearns_November 11, 2026
The guy behind the State of Charge YouTube channel claims it isn't certified, though that video dates to the period right after the Shell Recharge launched. I'm putting money aside for Clipper Creek's portable unit, the Amazing E, which costs around $130 more than the Shell one and also includes a 4 year warranty.
obrian_t
@obrian_tNovember 11, 2026
Right, cheap Chinese-made power electronics never end well in my experience. I'm either buying Mennekes or nothing.
dave_osterhaus
@dave_osterhausNovember 11, 2026
I've had good luck with my Duosida. It's just the 16A, 240V EVSE, and it stays cool even under load. A buddy of mine runs two of them with no trouble at all. I only own the one, since my other two chargers are JuiceBoxes — I picked those because I wanted a more permanent installation and liked their smart features. The Duosida has since been demoted to the "guest" charger sitting off to one side. My guess is that these budget J1772 handles simply aren't built for higher amperage.
lgrover_52
@lgrover_52November 11, 2026
My Duosida Level 2 (rated 250V) has been in service for 6 years now, and it has never run hot. If memory serves, it cost me about $180. Honestly, there's no need to spend $450 or more on a unit with Wi-Fi and the like, because these Duosidas work really well.
dave_osterhaus
@dave_osterhausNovember 11, 2026
If your battery is big enough and you can plug in all night, the 3.3 kW that a basic setup delivers covers what most people need. Chargers at 80A cause problems for several reasons, though they do have their place. I just don't believe a home user requires something that hefty. Truthfully, a efficient EV can get by on Level 1.
jsiegel_58
@jsiegel_58November 11, 2026
Sure, an efficient EV can get by on Level 1 alone... provided you're driving under 30-40 miles a day, that is.
ravi_ponder
@ravi_ponderNovember 11, 2026
Out of curiosity, what kind of female "pins" did your overheated J-connector have? My hunch is that the Duosida-style split pins, which use an outside spring ring, ought to grip better than the ones with springs built inside.
wvance_52
@wvance_52November 11, 2026
Great post! I'd like to know what you make of ClipperCreek. My home has a 14-30 dryer outlet, and I ordered the 16 amp LCS-20P from ClipperCreek, which carries a UL listing. I haven't had the chance to try it yet — is there any reason for me to be concerned?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 10, 2026
ClipperCreek is excellent; they're basically the original maker of tough, dependable chargers.
nolen_s
@nolen_sNovember 11, 2026
I had a unit quite like that one in the past, and it was absolutely dependable. I passed it along to a friend when I decided I needed something faster — and, not surprisingly, what I bought next was another Clipper Creek.
pdenholm_7
@pdenholm_7November 11, 2026
Because my panels have little spare capacity, I bought an inexpensive 16A 240V EVSE for my Bolt and put it on a 20A 240V breaker. Now we've moved to a new house with a bigger panel, and I've switched to a Grizzl-e on a 50A breaker. My plan was to throw out the cheap unit, but then I figured I might hang on to it in the car in case I ever come across a 6-20 outlet somewhere. Should I just get rid of it, or is there some concern since it's on a 20A circuit?
telmo_r71
@telmo_r71November 11, 2026
The Schumacher SC1455 L2 cable has given me zero trouble. It was once the lowest-priced cable on Amazon, and my closest friend uses one too and is very happy with it. Bear in mind it's only rated for 16 amps, so it really suits portable use or certain PHEVs. For what it's worth, the box says it was made in Mexico.
quinn_aldo
@quinn_aldoNovember 11, 2026
My experience with a near-identical product goes back to 2020, when I picked up an adjustable 40 amp unit sold under the SimplyWorks name. Roughly twelve months later it simply stopped powering on. The seller had vanished from Amazon and no longer carried it, so returning it wasn't possible. It's still sitting in my garage; the cables look fine, but the electronics never light up or deliver a charge. As a replacement I ordered a 32 amp Morec unit from eBay that resembles the one in this thread. Right away I noticed its conductor is only 6mm2, whereas the old 40 amp one used 8mm2. While charging my Bolt, the new cable gets fairly warm. On my next charge I plan to check the cable and the charge port pins with an IR thermometer, and if they run too hot I'll probably stop using it. Having to junk two units within 3 years would be a letdown, especially because I don't drive much and so only charge occasionally.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Thanks for sharing that, it's interesting. I'm happy to pass along what I know, and I appreciate you doing the same. I'd like to know how it fares over the long run. From what I've heard, the pin design in the early models tends to lose tension and wear, which makes overheating gradually worse. It would be great if you could measure again in a few months and report back.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Funnily enough, I've run a cheap Chinese-made 16A EVSE for years with no trouble. A lot of those were sold with cable assemblies carrying a UL listing as a component, attached to their own box and inlet cord/connector, and they turned out fine. Not everything like this is junk, but when something carries serious electrical current, being junk even occasionally is a REAL BIG problem.
vince_ledoux
@vince_ledouxNovember 11, 2026
Does it matter as much if the cable is rated for just 16A? I need something that plugs into a NEMA 10-30, and there aren't many choices out there.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Even 16A can cause trouble, though the risk is somewhat lower. The pins are the same size regardless, because of the standard and the need for interoperability, so you get an extra margin of safety at 16A. It's a shame there are so few 16A products, since having a 20 or 30A outlet available is so common and 16A charging covers things about 98% of the time. For years I've successfully used a 16A Duosida with a UL-listed cable assembly (the cable, not the whole unit). Buying EVSEs through Amazon or eBay is basically a gamble, but I purchased the one pictured on Duosida's site as their 16A model. Strangely, clicking that image sends you to an Amazon listing for a different product, so maybe the internals are shared, who knows. Listings for the one I got still exist, though, and one amusingly is under the POTATO brand. It looks identical to mine apart from the plug; mine came with a NEMA 6-20 inlet. If you're handy you can swap the plug, or look for the same-looking charger with a 10-30. Check that the J plug looks the same. Your mileage may vary.
jed_harwick
@jed_harwickNovember 11, 2026
Does this only concern level 2 EVSEs, or level 1 too?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
With level 1, I'd just use the one that shipped with your car. As far as I know, no automaker packs in this sort of junk, so it should be fine. Amazon level 1 units can have the same problems, but the current is much lower, so there's more room for error. It could still be a problem, though.
jed_harwick
@jed_harwickNovember 11, 2026
In the US, the Kia EV6 doesn't ship with one, which is why I asked.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 10, 2026
Ah, got it. Can you add one when you buy the car? I'm currently renting a '22 Niro EV and the EVSE that came with it looks legitimate. If it costs more than $300 it's likely not worth it, though.
jed_harwick
@jed_harwickNovember 11, 2026
No, not as an option, at least not when the car first launched and I bought mine. The reason I asked is that plain level 1 EVSEs cost far less than $300, so I wondered whether the price you mentioned was aimed more at level 2.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Manufacturing-wise, an L1 EVSE and an L2 EVSE are basically the same thing, apart from L2 units being offered at higher current ratings. The components are usually already rated for the higher voltage; what costs more is the extra copper needed to carry more amps. So a 16A L1 unit and a 16A L2 unit should cost about the same to build. The 16A units that handle both L1 and L2 show this well. If your power needs are modest and you've got a dedicated 20A circuit, one could suit you nicely. If you don't have that circuit, you'd have to dial the power down, and I don't know whether the Kia EV6 allows that. From what I've found, the Niro I drive now doesn't.
rob_vanleer
@rob_vanleerNovember 11, 2026
One of the pins on my Siemens VersaCharge VG2 melted while it was charging my 2020 Bolt, so I need a replacement plug. Does Duosida have a good reputation?
jdunmore_19
@jdunmore_19November 11, 2026
Nice post. Which brands would you recommend, particularly for level 1 chargers?
lorenzo_b7
@lorenzo_b7November 11, 2026
This is a great PSA, and I like that it's backed by data. I got burned by an eBay seller on this very charger. Living in Texas, where my garage can reach 120 degrees in summer, heat is a real worry for me. Safety is my top concern, so thanks to everyone who weighed in on it. I ran one of these at 16A on a Rav4 Prime through a J1772 plug and have used it for about 11 months with no trouble. Meanwhile I'm holding off on a new L2 EVSE for roughly 2 years, since I'm waiting to see what Tesla does with Powershare on older models. Ideally I'd buy a 48A L2 charger with that feature that works on my 2020 Model 3, though I don't know if it will ever be supported on my car. So from my own data, the charger runs fine at 16A on the Rav4 Prime. On the Tesla, I attached an adapter, put the car in 16A mode, and it charged for 20 minutes with no issues. I have a couple of questions for the community: 1. Running at 16A draws less current than in OP's test. At that level, are the charger pins still in a dangerous temperature range? 2. If the answer to 1 is yes, suppose the Tesla only charges at 16A and I use my L2 charger for it about once a month, with L1 covering most of my needs. An adapter is needed to use this charger with the Tesla, so heat would build up between the adapter and the charger, and some would travel through charger -> adapter -> car port. If 1 is true, I'd guess the adapter would be damaged before anything else. I'm using the official Tesla J1772 to NACS adapter. Yes, no, maybe?
harvey_loft
@harvey_loftNovember 11, 2026
The original post is 4 years old now. Did you open it up, and could you tell where the failure happens?
sweeney_r
@sweeney_rNovember 11, 2026
Would a 16-amp unit on a PHEV likely be safer than units running at higher amperage? On mine you can pick the maximum current, with settings such as 6 A, 8 A, 10 A, 13 A, up to 16 A. Since I'm usually not rushed, I normally charge at a lower max. When I really need a fast charge I'll set it to the full 16 A at 240 V, but that's rare for me.
tomi_baxter
@tomi_baxterNovember 11, 2026
What's the best place on Amazon to find affordable EV charging cables?
ross_amundsen
@ross_amundsenNovember 11, 2026
Here's another data point: I have the same charger and the same car, and I did a test like yours. After 45 minutes of charging at 32 amps, the hottest spot read 35 C on an IR thermometer, with an ambient of 15 C. I checked both AC pins and their counterparts on the car. I've used the charger for 8 months with no problems. I likely won't ditch it, but I'm glad I found this post, so thanks for sharing.
mstrand_19
@mstrand_19November 11, 2026
I'm curious what share of these failures come down to bad workmanship on the plug's pins, like a loose crimp or a screw terminal that ended up clamped on insulation rather than bare conductor. If that's the main cause, then a particular model could be fine 99% of the time and dangerously overheat in the other 1%, with no way for a buyer to know which one they got.
rod_sutcliffe
@rod_sutcliffeNovember 11, 2026
So what would you actually recommend? Consumer Reports has a list that includes the Tesla Wall Connector. Is that a solid choice?
jarvis_k
@jarvis_kNovember 11, 2026
The advice to buy a well-known brand whose charging gear is approved by a Nationally Recognized Test Lab (UL, ETL, Intertek, CSA, TÜV and so on), and to verify that on the lab's own site, is something I completely agree with. Still, I keep wondering what prevents a dishonest seller from printing a bogus certificate and a made-up brand name, one without the obvious typos you'd see on "Daddydas" sneakers. A seller who is willing to fake the current limit signalling clearly wouldn't be held back by copying a logo properly.
lhollis_33
@lhollis_33November 11, 2026
What about the 120V version, though? Particularly if I also cap the current in the car, say at 10A rather than 12A?
lou_sandefur
@lou_sandefurNovember 11, 2026
Meanwhile, for charging your iPhone, go ahead and use the Amazon cables. In that category they hold up about ten times longer than Apple's. 😂🤷🏻‍♂️
hdelmar_64
@hdelmar_64November 11, 2026
If a listing shows UL certifications or marks and you suspect they're counterfeit, or if you've had problems with the product, it's worth reporting it at market-surveillance.ul.com. When a product carries a UL label with a certification ID, you can also search for it at productiq.ulprospector.com, which will show the company, the product, and its model variants.
mellor_k
@mellor_kNovember 11, 2026
Duosida-branded plugs, on the other hand, have sockets that grip far too tightly, which would wear the nickel plating off the pins in your car's charge port fast. Compare their sockets with those in plugs from quality brands and it's obvious the build quality of these Chinese plugs is poor.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Could you say more about that? It's not something I've noticed.
jgault_46
@jgault_46November 11, 2026
Bear in mind that the EVSE that came with your car can often do level 2 charging at roughly 2.4kW using just a simple plug adapter, which is well beyond the charging speed almost everybody needs. For good value, Emporia has a UL listed unit on Amazon at $430. After going through two very pricey EVSEs within a few years, though, I bought an OpenEVSE. I believe I paid about $380, though they seem to be around $580 now. Even so, I think it's worth it for an open source EVSE with every feature you could want and, importantly, one that can really be repaired.
ross_amundsen
@ross_amundsenNovember 11, 2026
That's the exact one I've been eyeing. It had been $399, but now it's about $40 higher. On the plus side, it's UL certified at this point.
sam_voyles
@sam_voylesNovember 11, 2026
A YouTube channel that orders random Amazon products and actually puts them through proper technical testing is something I'd happily subscribe to. In the meantime, have you looked at any of the Tesla-to-CCS1 adapters that are beginning to show up for sale?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Not about EVs, but Project Farm is a channel you'd probably enjoy.
rcranmer_
@rcranmer_November 11, 2026
Not every one of them has issues, just some. I ran a 32A Morec charger for a few years with no trouble, and only moved to a Juicebox so I could take advantage of time-of-use rates. Honestly I'd go back to the Morec if I could, since it had its own built-in screen and I didn't have to dig through an app for charging info. It cost around $300 too, which was a great deal.
pgantt_44
@pgantt_44November 11, 2026
There are also reports out there of the Lectron knockoff of the Tesla plug getting too hot.
wes_larkin
@wes_larkinNovember 11, 2026
It's the same story as bargain phone chargers that ended up melting. Proper ones cost what they do for a reason, folks.
wes_dunbar
@wes_dunbarNovember 11, 2026
I own this very charger. My car tops out at 32A, so I figured that makes it fine? I hardly use it anyway. The last time was on a camping trip, and it never drew more than about 30A, so I took that as a good sign. At home I use a slower charger, or I charge for free at work.
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Much of what my post is about is that 32A was not fine in my case.
sbrecken
@sbreckenNovember 11, 2026
For three years we've run this same Morec 32A charger on our Bolt (which maxes out at 32A) with no problems. Yesterday evening, roughly an hour into a session, I went to check on it. The J-plug was only slightly warmer than the surroundings, but the NEMA 14-50 plug and the short cable leading to the EVSE were hot enough that I couldn't comfortably hold them for long. I pulled it out immediately and I'm done with it for good. This morning I tried our replacement, and after a comparable charging time the NEMA plug, the short cable to the EVSE, and the J-plug were all close to ambient. It's UL listed, and the manual says it has at least two temperature sensors and will cut back the charge rate on its own to control heat. I'm really glad we swapped. Thanks, OP, for pointing this out. In case anyone's wondering, we got the genuine GM dual level charger, the one now bundled with the Bolt EUV. It lists for about $405-500 depending on the dealer. With a 15% manufacturer coupon plus GM points we already had, we paid under $250 out of pocket including tax. It's basic and has no LCD, but being an OEM part and UL listed makes me far more comfortable using it.
cosmo_ledd
@cosmo_leddNovember 11, 2026
I once bought a "cheap" EVSE that looked great, with a large live display for current and temperature. It died before long, which was a costly mistake, though thankfully there was no fire or anything worse, it just stopped working. My current one is a no-frills Clipper Creek, built in the USA with a focus on durability. I believe it's UL listed as well.
bryn_ollis
@bryn_ollisNovember 11, 2026
Maybe this is a silly thing to ask, but I can't see what an EVSE is for. Each of my two EVs shipped with an ordinary power cord that goes straight into a regular household outlet (edit: perhaps that's not quite right, see the reply below). So why would I spend several hundred dollars on a fancy smart unit to send AC power to the car, when a plain cord seems to handle it fine?
lfinnegan_
@lfinnegan_November 11, 2026
I've had a 32 amp Level 2 charger from Amazon, which cost me $299, and it's worked great since 2018. It even lives outside most of the time. So I suppose your results may differ.
ron_sakamoto
@ron_sakamotoNovember 11, 2026
For the moment my Volt gets charged by an inexpensive EVSE running at 120v and 8a. Down the road I might turn it into a travel charger for a motorcycle. Once I'm ready to buy a proper 220v unit, I'll definitely go with a recognized brand.
sully_t88
@sully_t88November 10, 2026
Thanks for the heads-up! OP, could you let me know whether this EVSE is safe?
nate_halvard
@nate_halvardNovember 11, 2026
Emporia strikes me as a fairly respected brand, even if it hasn't been around long. You can check its UL listing on the NRTL website.